It was but a mere nine years ago that Jeanne Signoles first captivated the style set with the launch of her Parisian label, L/UNIFORM. And now? L/UNIFORM has blossomed into a true titan of Gallic taste, with a trio of boutiques dotting the Parisian landscape. Each shrine to Signoles’ impeccable vision overflows with the label’s ever-expanding realm: totes, handbags, luggages, and luscious small leather goods, all meticulously handcrafted start-to-finish in the brand’s very own ateliers in Carcassonne and Portugal.
Ahead of her latest collection (the new Summer Stripe Collection) launching in stores at Lane Crawford, we caught up with Jeanne Signoles to find out more about the brand’s new collection, the process of handmaking L/UNIFORM’s offerings and what’s next for the brand.
As L/UNIFORM’s only partner in Hong Kong, why Lane Crawford?
I first discovered Lane Crawford during a trip to Hong Kong 25 years ago. Years later, when I started working for a luxury group, I had the opportunity to meet Jennifer Woo, who shares the same generation as me. This was a meaningful encounter, as my previous experiences had mostly involved working with older businessmen.
Tell us about the new Summer Stripe Collection
I love stripes!
Canvas stripes is a very authentic material in France: it positively pervades the summertime lifestyle collections. I thought it was a nice way to celebrate summer, so I did two colours of stripes: Light blue and light pink as pink is my favorite colour – and it’s more original than the traditional yellow stripe.
This pattern is also very special to my heart as it reveals all our sophisticated craftsmanship and expertise. Indeed, creating this very special range of stripes requires true artisanal virtuosity, ensuring a dye on natural fibers with colours resistant to light.
I also drew inspiration from the Bayadère fabric – a fabric with wide and colorful stripes – that you can easily find in the South of France, where L/UNIFORM was founded.
Could you describe the process of handmaking L/UNIFORM’s offerings and the level of craftsmanship that goes into each piece?
Our striped canvases are subject to a long, careful and rigorous manufacturing process as each roll of woven fabric is:
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Washed,
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Shaved to obtain a smooth surface,
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Dyed all the way through (except natural, checked and khaki canvas),
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Checked to verify color and remove imperfections,
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Dipped in a resin bath to render it waterproof, water-repellent and stain-resistant,
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Coated on each side (canvases have no back or front side) to facilitate maintenance
Regarding our bags and accessories, from the designing stage to assembling, finishing touches and packing, each step of the manufacturing process of an L/UNIFORM model is entrusted to the most skilled artisans. Upholding the esteemed 17th-century legacy that defined French luxury, this maison perpetuates time-honored techniques and artisanal expertise. Every meticulously crafted piece demands an uncompromising manufacturing duration, ensuring its steadfast quality and longevity.
Piecing together a bag, applying a braid, assembling a ring, placing a monogram: each of these operations is a series of meticulous gestures for which precision is essential. The patient, meticulous nature of our manufacturing process is the very essence of the “handmade” distinction that has become a signature of the L/UNIFORM brand.
No stranger to collaborations, what are the qualities you look for in a partner?
I love the idea of collaborating with very established brands and with friends of mine. I also love it when these collaborative ventures blossom into friendships, as has been the case with Hiroshi Fujiwara and Christine d’Ornano (the owner of Sisley).
How do you maintain a balance between traditional French craftsmanship and modern design elements in your collections?
Driven by the uncompromising quality of L/UNIFORM and my vision for enduring, family-centric designs, we must dedicate the highest level of care and attention to every step of the manufacturing process.
In addition, I am adamant about pursuing the most exquisite ‘finition’ and ‘savoir faire’ in the execution of our pieces. Achieving that level of impeccable quality simply cannot happen without the most stringent of specifications and an utterly meticulous industrial process within our workshops. It is for these very reasons that establishing complete mastery over my own manufacturing.
What is the significance of the use of leather and canvas as the primary materials for L/UNIFORM’s bags? How do these materials contribute to the overall quality and aesthetic of your products?
It was significant for me to select a very luxury canvas as the foundation for my collection. That’s why I developed an exclusive canvas with a French weaving workshop. In the same vein, that’s also why I chose a family tannery in Italy that provided for the largest luxury brands. To me, leather and canvas are the perfect materials to embody the quiet, everyday luxury that lies at the very heart of my brand.
Canvas lies in its ability to bestow a delightful sense of lightness, utility, and practicality, while the supple elegance of leather lends an air of structure and comfort.
How do you balance the timeless appeal of your designs with the ever-changing trends in the fashion industry?
I created L/UNIFORM because I wanted to create a brand that was authentic, classic, timeless, sophisticated and refined without being ostentatious or with a “logo”.
Would you call Japan the second home to L/UNIFORM? Which is the next country you’re looking to explore?
Japan is a second home for both myself and L/UNIFORM, but I’m looking forward to discovering Korea and the United States!
Discover the new collection at the L/UNIFORM pop-up, only at Lane Crawford